SafariLands.org: Safaris: Hadzabe Bushmen of Tanzania

While traditionally considered an East African branch of the Khoisan peoples, modern genetic research suggests that they may be more closely related to the Pygmies. The Hadza language has clicks and appears to be an isolate, unrelated to any other

The Hadza, or Hadzabe'e, are an ethnic group in central Tanzania, living around Lake Eyasi in the central Rift Valley and in the neighboring Serengeti Plateau. The Hadza number just under 1000, Some 300-400 Hadza live as hunter-gatherers, much as they have for thousands or even tens of thousands of years; they are perhaps the last functioning hunter-gatherers in Africa. The Hadza are not closely related to any other people.

There were no coke bottles visible in the area we were visiting, but I spied several modern articles in the area and I wondered if this truly was a Stone Age encampment.

The scream was uttered by a female baboon when she spotted the hunters closing in on her. Clutching her baby, she attempted to escape into the trees, but she wasn’t quick enough. Two well-placed arrows killed her and her offspring and the hunt was over.

As a reward for attaining the ripe old age of seventy-five I decided to visit Tanzania in East Africa to view wild animals before it was too late. Estimates show that African wildlife is decreasing at an alarming rate, due to encroachment of civilization and poaching.

I invited my son, Ron, to accompany me in this great adventure. As I offered to pay his way he quickly accepted. He had always expressed a desire to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. At forty-eight he was superbly fit and I made arrangements for him to attempt the climb before our safari. He managed to reach the summit without any trouble.

In February of 2006 the Serengeti plains were turning green, following the early arrival of the seasonal rains. A fierce storm at Kilimanjaro airport caused the KLM flight I travelled on from Amsterdam to abort two landing attempts. The aircraft flew on to Dar El Salaam, where we waited several hours before the aircraft flew back, landing successfully. We reached our lodgings very late; Ron was waiting to welcome me.

In the next few days we toured several Tanzanian National Parks, managing to see many species of animals in the wild; lions, elephants, rhinos, hippos, giraffes, zebras all in their natural environment. We would see a leopard later on.

Our first lioness was spotted in the Ngorongoro Crater, a vast amphitheatre where animals are protected by the surrounding rim. She strode across our path intent on her journey. Wildebeest and zebras grazing near her path looked at her warily, but she had eaten well and would not deign to give them even a glance.

Each day brought new sights and sounds for us to enjoy. We spotted a lone rhino, who dominated the crater, but we could not get close to it. Hordes of monkeys and baboons in large groups entertained us with their antics.

The weather was predictable. Most mornings began with heavy rain that disappeared as if by magic around 10am, giving way to bright sunshine that could cause severe sunburn to unprotected skin. Surprisingly the heat was never felt intense even though we were just below the equator.

After a couple of days touring the Ngorongoro Crater our party split into two; one group stayed on safari while the more adventurous of us proceeded to Lake Elasi over many miles of red mud. We spent the night in a tented camp and rose before dawn the next day to visit the Hadzabe tribe in the wilderness.

There are only a few small groups of Bushmen left after years of Government closure of traditional hunting grounds and clearance of forest growth. Attempts to integrate them in small villages have failed and they are now left to live their lives in the bush.

We stopped at a village to pick up a guide who knew where the tribe was situated. Our two land-rovers eventually drove into a clearing where about two dozen people, men, women and children were sitting around a fire.

Despite the early morning chill they were dressed in very little clothing: the males being naked from the waist up. Two of the younger children shivered once in a while. I immediately noticed the women and smaller children were separated from the men and youths.

We were welcomed by smiling faces and invited to tour their camp. In a tree, close to a large fire, hung two haunches and the severed head of a kudu, a small antelope, fastened to branches. Flies were feasting on the blood covered meat. The men were armed with primitive bows and arrows tipped with metal points that they dip in a fast-acting poison. The bow strings they make from giraffe tendons.

Firewood is gathered from the commiphora tree and is lit by rubbing two sticks together. Green sap from the same tree provides protection from mosquitoes, while the sansaveria tree gives juice that cures snakebite. Roots provide medicines and the baobab fruits are a source of fluid to drink.

The camp, located on a river bank, had been completely dry a few days prior to our visit. Now dirty brown water flowed and I wondered where these people got their drinking water. A large metal pot sat simmering on the fire watched intently by four dogs of indeterminate breed.

As we looked around we were beset on all sides by strange sounds as our hosts jabbered to our guide. There were several shelters consisting of many interwoven twigs and branches about the size of pup tents. A small fire in the entrance to one shelter boasted another of the huge pots. I was happy the pots were too small to hold a human being; thoughts of cannibalism crossed my mind!

The men’s attire of jeans or shorts held up by leather belts were mostly ragged and dirty. Some were barefoot while others wore sandals. Strings of beads hung around their necks and their hair was close cropped. The women wore brightly coloured African dresses like sarongs and also had cropped hair.

Several members of the tribe smoked what looked like coarse hand- made cigars or cigarettes and were immediately overcome by hacking coughs that appeared to worsen with every drag. Undeterred, they drew in another lungful and coughed even more. I am not sure what they used to roll their smokes, could have been marijuana or animal dung!

The kudu skin had been removed and two of the men stretched it out flat, driving wooden stakes through the hide into the ground to stretch and cure it.

We eventually heard the cries of baboons and the male members of the tribe set out to hunt the animals, grabbing bows and arrows. Six or eight of them ran in the general direction of the chattering beasts followed by members of our group bent on witnessing the spectacle.

The ground consisted of rocks and tree roots ready to trip the unwary. We missed the culmination of the hunt, but caught up with the hunters who were carrying the female baboon and the baby,

Back at the camp the female baboon was tossed on the fire, with no skinning or gutting. Apparently the fire removes the coat and it is easier to butcher the animal.

The women and younger children were given the young baboon which suffered the same fate as its mother, being thrown onto the smaller fire.

Before our trip we were told we may be asked to join in the feast. I noticed several members of our party grimacing with distaste when one of us brought up the subject. Fortunately we were not offered anything. To further deflate our appetite we watched the pot taken from the fire, the kudu meat removed, leaving just bones and water inside. The dogs, quiet and well behaved, immediately ate from the pot.

After being cooked and the fur removed, the small baboon was hacked with machetes and divided among the children. Our hearts leaped in our mouths as we watched one young lad, about six years old, hacking an arm in two with a machete at the joint of the elbow. The lad was very adept and suffered no injury performing his task.

Before we left, some of us were pulled into a circle in the clearing where a victory dance was held. Greasy palms gripped ours and the members of our party not dancing had a field day with their cameras.

We saw many more animals in the Serengeti, and stayed at two luxury lodges. Buffet meals ensured we all had decent meals and one evening we listened while we ate as a troop of baboons pounded across the dining room roof.

After completing our safari we flew to the Spice Islands and bartered for souvenirs in Stonetown, before spending three days on the beach at the north end of Zanzibar Island.

Our safari was a holiday never to be forgotten, but I remember most the happy-go-lucky Hadzabe tribe, nomads who are content doing their thing without television, radio or newspapers ruining their simple lives.

The end.

Source: http://www.toowrite.com/